A Road Trip Through the California Desert

November 7, 2016
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Favorites, United States
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California is a large state with many empty or even uninhabitable swaths of land. It is easy to understand how and where one could live off the grid if one so desired. Towns surviving in desert landscapes face hardships that only the hearty, the adventurous, or the creative can sustain. And then there is Palm Springs. With its 350 days of sunshine, Palm Springs is an oasis town in the Colorado Desert. It is here where the Los Angeles elite come to play when they need to escape that chilly, Pacific breeze.

Palm Springs

We were traveling to Palm Springs to attend a wedding. Having been to LA several times, I was excited to get out and see a new side of this vast state. I was also particularly keen on experiencing some mid-century charm. Palm Springs has one of the largest concentrations of mid-century modern homes, most of which are meticulously maintained. Mid-century modern architecture is practical in a desert landscape because of its use of indoor/outdoor space, large glass windows, and its open-air feel. Coupled with the simultaneous rise in popularity of this town, Palm Springs became the mid-century modern city.

I was delighted that we were staying at the Del Marcos Hotel, which happens to be a historic, mid-century modern building! The hotel rents bikes to guest, which we took advantage of for a self-guided tour of the town. We only had a few hours to enjoy the sights before the wedding festivities began, and a bike ride was the perfect way to spend them.

The Salton Sea

The following day, since we had to return to LA, we made the wonderful decision to do a daylong road trip. There was more desert to see! Our first stop was the Sonoran Desert, home of the surreal, Salton Sea, the largest inland body of water in California. Some time in the very-early 1900’s, the Colorado River was accidentally diverted when it burst through a poorly built irrigation system. It began to fill the Salton Basin (named for the salty earth) until the error was corrected and the river was reverted back to its original course. By then, the Salton Sea had been formed.

There is no natural source of water that can maintain this sea, nor is there much rain (it is the desert after all). Each year, as more water evaporates, the sea becomes shallower and saltier. The only fish that can survive the briny bath are Tilapia.

However, an interesting thing happens at the end of the dry, hot summer months. Water has evaporated; the sea is at its saltiest. The desert winds pick up, blowing dust into these warm waters, creating an algae paradise. The combination of increased salt, warmer temps, and algae is deadly. The oxygen levels are now very low and millions (actually millions) of fish die each day. Their bodies line the shores of the sea. It is a gruesome sight, but at the same time, it is wildly fascinating.

Salvation Mountain

Our next stop, Salvation Mountain, was built by Leonard Knight, a man whose life’s purpose was to promote his belief that God is Love. He had numerous ideas on how to spread this message. However, the logistics proved to be impossible, and eventually he abandoned those dreams.

In a last attempt to spread his message, he began to build a mountain outside of the desert town of Niland, California. As the mountain grew, he began to paint his creation. He painted colorful flowers and designs, but most importantly, he painted his message. His work has become popular over time, and was even featured in several film productions. We wandered around for a half an hour or so, climbing the “yellow brick road,” admiring the artwork, and reading the messages. Salvation Mountain sits at the entrance to Slab City, our next destination.

Slab City and East Jesus

Slab City was once a World War II marine base. When the base was bulldozed and abandoned, the concrete foundation slabs remained, giving this city its name. Although the majority of the inhabitants of “The Slabs” are seasonal, there is a community that remains year-round (despite the high temperatures in the desert summer). Slab City is not an official town, which means it is a perfect spot for someone trying to live “off the grid.” However, with that comes hardships, such as no running water or sewage or any public utility for that matter. Thus, the inhabitants of The Slabs are strong-willed and independent minded, making it a fascinating visit.

Although it is easy to visit Salvation Mountain and Slab City on a day trip from Los Angeles, Palm Springs, or Joshua Tree, for anyone who would like to stay over night there is a hostel located in East Jesus.

East Jesus is an artists’ community located on the far end of Slab City. Or rather, according to East Jesus residents themselves, they are (according to their website), a place to “provide a refuge for artists, musicians, survivalists, writers, scientists, laymen and other wandering geniuses,” who “are dedicated to providing a working model of an improbable improvised community at the edge of the world.” Their works are displayed throughout their site, which is easy to visit. However, if you do plan to stay the night, I suggest you read their survival kit on their website.

Joshua Tree National Park

Back to the Colorado Desert for our last stop, Joshua Tree National Park. Arie, a former Los Angeles resident, has visited Joshua Tree many, many times. I was always envious of his relationship with these Truffula-esque trees. This was going to be, for me, the highlight of this road trip. Unfortunately, with all of the time we spent visiting the oddities in the desert, we reached the back entrance to the park at the golden hour. At the time of our arrival, the park was quiet and still, and the sunset over the desert hills was magical.

We reached the main entrance to the park when it was already dark. We were hungry. After a nice dinner in Twenty-nine Palms, we headed back to Los Angeles, never having gotten to see the one place I was hoping most to explore.