Know your Spirits: Tequila vs Mezcal

May 1, 2018
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Savour
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Since I’m on a Mexico kick here on the blog, and Cinco de Mayo just happens to be around the corner, I thought I’d talk about Mexico’s two most popular spirits: tequila and mezcal. Tequila has been popular in the U.S. for quite some time, and is kind of synonymous with partying; Tequila Tuesday anyone? Mezcal is a relative new comer to the U.S. cocktail scene, and is often seen as more refined due to its “small batch” status. So what is the difference between these two anyway?

History

First let’s start with a little bit of history. Long before the Spanish arrived in (what is now) Mexico, the maguey plant, or the agave, was used by the indigenous people. The sap from the maguey was fermented into a milky “wine” called pulque, and only the spiritual leaders were allowed to consume the beverage during rituals. When the Spanish arrived, they brought with them their distilling knowhow, and taught the local people to distill the maguey plant, using the plant’s heart instead of the sap. With that, mezcal was born.

Back to Basics

Both tequila and mezcal come from the agave plant, of which there are several varieties. While mezcal can be made from a variety of agaves, all tequila must (by law*) come from the blue agave—a large, spiky succulent recognizable by its bluish-gray color. The agave loves hot and arid climates, perfect for its native Mexico. Also by law, tequila can only come from certain regions in Mexico. While there are fewer restrictions on mezcal, the majority of this smoky brew is distilled in Oaxaca. Thus, all tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila.

Tequila: To make this ancient elixir, the agave plant is harvested after it has reached a maturity level of about 7-8 years. Only the center bulb (which is actually quite big) called the piña is used. The piña is then baked or steamed until it is golden brown, which gives it a rich, syrupy flavor, kind of like a baked sweet potato. The plant is then shredded and squeezed to obtain the agave liquid, which is then fermented and distilled into tequila.

Mezcal: The process to make mezcal is a bit more organic. The piñas are roasted in pits in the ground using stone, dirt and wood (usually mesquite or oak); the liquid is then distilled in clay pots. The process gives the beverage that signature smoky flavor. Mezcal production is done on a much smaller scale, often being produced by a family or small town. It also uses a variety of agaves. The combination gives the drink a larger variety of flavor profiles. While in Guanajuato, we visited a local tavern that made their own mezcals. Since the production process is not standard, the mezcal we tried, which was made on site, had much less of that smoky flavor that is associated with the drink.

Understanding the Label

Blanco: Sometimes called silver, is un-aged (or aged less than two months) and bottled immediately after distillation. Having spent little or no time aging, blanco has the truest agave flavor. Note that sometimes a mezcal that has been aged less than two months is also referred to as a joven. A tequila labeled joven is something entirely different (see below).

Reposado: Aged more than two months, but less than one year, in oak barrels. Reposado has a golden color and a more distinct flavor due to its time spent in the barrel.

Anejo: Aged a minimum of one year, but less than three years, in oak barrels. Anejo is typically a golden amber color and rich in flavor.

Extra Anejo: Aged a minimum of three years in oak barrels. Extra Anejo is the darkest, smoothest tequila, but also so strong that it must be diluted with water before consumption.

Joven (tequila only): A mix of blanco and one of the aged tequilas, the mix can vary. Joven is best for mixed drinks, such as party margaritas!

How to enjoy them

Yes, there are more ways to enjoy these beverages than a shot followed by a lime wedge, especially with the mezcal! A quality mezcal should be “kissed” and enjoyed slowly. While you sip, think about the flavor: what else can you taste? Chipotle, coffee, leather, orange… I personally love both tequila and mezcal because they tend to have more of a savory flavor than other spirits; they are a perfect drink on a hot day.