Exploring Magical Cartagena
Bry and I touched down in Cartagena around sunset. As we stepped off the plane, we immediately knew we had left the mountains and our feet were now firmly in the tropics. The warm, sticky air felt delicious at first, a sensation I hadn’t felt in a while, but after the realization that our sleeping arrangements did not include air-conditioning, we felt a bit anxious. We were staying at a home that we had booked through Airbnb. The house was located in the Manga district, just across the bridge from the old town.After a quick hello to the owners, we dropped off our stuff, changed into dresses, and headed to the old town for dinner. We had no expectations of the city. We had read that there was an old city, but we did not realize just how magical and beautiful it would be, especially at night. We headed to El Bistro. Located in El Centro, the main part of the old city, El Bistro is an adorable café. After relishing the most delicious vegetarian paella that I have ever tasted, we headed toward the city wall.
As we walked through the narrow streets, we couldn’t help but notice how lively the city had become. Tourists and locals alike were out enjoying the warm, Caribbean breezes that carried the salsa music into every corner of every plaza. As we walked the city wall, we passed several groups of local musicians and families dancing to the lively music. How wonderful to be in a city full of life.
The next morning we again headed to the old town, this time for breakfast. We walked through the quiet streets that had, the previous night, been so vibrant. Searching for a charming brunch spot, we noticed that the majority of the eateries were closed for the morning. Hmm… Ah… It was Sunday! The sun was high in the sky by this time, and it was hot. As the sweat beaded on our foreheads, we started to feel a bit hopeless. Then we spotted it, Prispri, a coffee shop near the Plaza de Bolivar, a small and very cute, air-conditioned haven. We sat for a while eating empanadas, drinking coffee, and writing postcards.
After having cooled down, and having satisfied our hunger, we headed to the Museo del Oro y Arqueologia (the gold museum), which was not only free but also air-conditioned! The museum showcases several types of gold pieces from the native people of Colombia. The pieces are stunning, very impressive. Our favorites were the unusual creatures, miniature wildlife in gold!
By this time the sun was lower in the sky, and it had become more comfortable to wander around. We picked up an arepa from a street cart. Hot off the griddle, the arepa was stuffed with butter and cheese, delicious! After that much-needed pick-me-up, we headed to the Convento de San Pedro Claver. Although simple in style, the convent had a very lush tropical courtyard which was refreshing on a hot tropical day. We climbed the stairs to take a peak at the church.
With a few hours to kill before dinner, we took an afternoon stroll along the city wall. Locals go to the wall in the evenings to read their novels, write their journals, or to have a romantic moment with their loves. We enjoyed the views of both the new city, Bocagrande, and the old city below.
As we descended from the wall, we stumbled across an adorable bookstore, Abaco Libros Y Cafe. We took the opportunity to indulge in another Colombian coffee and write a few more postcards. Bry also picked up Of Love and Other Demons by Gabriel Garcia Marquez which happens to be set in Cartagena. Why not read the literature of the place you’re in and get a further flavor of the local culture?
For dinner, a Colombian friend (as well as our guidebook) had recommended an Italian establishment in the Getsemani district called I Balconi. The owner is Italian and is passionate about food; some say Balconi has the best pizza in Colombia! To top it off, the restaurant sits above Bar Havana, known for its live salsa music. We had planned to fill up on pizza and then travel down to Havana for a salsa-style nightcap. Unfortunately, Havana was closed! All was well, though; the pizza was fabulous. Getsemani is a bit more rustic than its counter part, El Centro. As we sat perched at our balcony table, we watched the bustle on the street below. A lovely end to a lovely day.
See how this trip got started with our One Day in Medellin
Traveling in Colombia? See more of our Colombia adventures here
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